Stories about places that have inspired me and, I hope, stories that will inspire others ...

Wednesday, February 24, 2010

Frozen memories


The sounds ricocheting out of the woods one cold, crisp winter's day two years ago were as distinctive as any Jack Parker heard in his six-plus decades living in eastern Massachusetts. While the longtime Boston University hockey coach and his wife, Jacqueline, were strolling through the Annisquam section of Gloucester on Cape Ann, alongside an old quarry, Parker detected the telltale scratch of skate blades carving ice and the rhythmic tap-tap-tapping of vulcanized rubber against wooden stick blades.

"There's a little pond with a huge rock that you could shoot pucks against," recalls Parker. "There were a bunch of Gloucester High hockey players out there. So I told them, 'I'll be right back, boys.' I walked back to my house, got my skates out of the trunk, had a stick, and went up and took a skate with them. It was just fabulous."

The sight of a legendary college coach taking a spin with a group of teenagers might seem like a made-for-Hallmark moment -- especially when the coach is already in his 60s, with more than 700 wins and two national championships on his Hall of Fame résumé at the time (now 821 and three, respectively). But it didn't surprise Jacqueline, and it shouldn't surprise anyone who knows her husband. Like his chief rival and respected friend a few miles away on Boston's Commonwealth Avenue -- Boston College's Jerry York -- Jack Parker (pictured above, by Susan Walsh/AP) grew up in the tight-knit neighborhoods surrounding Boston. Hockey is in his blood.

Parker and York, both 64 and grandfathers, learned to play the game and came to love it on the frozen ponds and outdoor rinks sprinkled throughout Boston and its suburbs. So there's a certain symmetry in the fact that these two giants of the college game, two men who still wax nostalgic at the memories of playing outside, will meet on Friday, Jan. 8, in the nightcap of the Hockey East doubleheader at Fenway Park.

"Jack and I have been trying over the past seven years to have a game at Fenway," says York. "At one point, four or five years ago, it actually got close to getting done, but the Red Sox were always doing some additions and renovations, so it got put on the back burner. I almost had given up on the idea.

"But when the NHL Winter Classic came, this was the perfect scenario for us. Fenway Park is such a historic landmark, not just in New England, but all of North America. This brings us right back to the outdoors, when you learned hockey.

Before these coaches embarked on their remarkably successful coaching careers (1,652 wins and six national titles between them), before they rubbed elbows while players in college (Parker at BU, York at BC, naturally), before they first faced off almost exactly 48 years ago in high school, on New Year's Day in 1962, they were pond rats, pure and simple.

They grew up outside Boston -- York in Watertown, Parker in Somerville -- and may well have crossed paths before that New Year's match. Both York and Parker have vivid recollections of the game, and the locations, that filled the winter days of their youth. Both lament the loss of natural ice and the freedom it promised. There were few adults, no coaches, no drills, no set practices, no "official" games and no referees, other than the kids on the ice.

"We learned to play the game differently," says Parker. "Kids had fun learning to play, instead of having all this organized pressure on them all the time. "Nowadays, it's completely different."

In the 1950s and early 1960s in Massachusetts, there was an unmatched sense of anticipation when the leaves fell in late autumn and the skies turned gray and raw. Playing outside, regardless of the weather, was still the major pastime. Kids weren't preoccupied with Sony PlayStations, Xbox 360s or Nintendo Wiis.

"As October blended into November, we were thinking, just let it get cold," says York. "And when it did get cold, we were praying it wouldn't snow, because that was the worst combination."

Parker remembers the almost unbearable weeks leading up to the holidays and the excruciating wait to see if there would be new skates and sticks, maybe hockey gloves and shin guards, under the Christmas tree. The weeks that followed were filled with crack-of-dawn mornings, collecting gear and warm clothes, a Thermos filled with soup or hot chocolate, a few oranges and sandwiches, and enough bundled energy to last the day. Sunup to sundown.

"We'd play for hours and hours," says York. "People have that in other parts of the country with baseball or basketball. But here, it was a New England tradition, getting dropped off at a pond and just playing hockey.

York had several options close to home, including a pond by the Weston Observatory, where he would skate while his father, a doctor, made his rounds visiting the Jesuit priests. He might skate at the flooded tennis courts at Victory Field in Watertown, or the enormous, windswept Spy Pond in Arlington. "If you missed the goal, you had to chase the puck forever," he says.

But Chandlers Pond in Brighton was York's choice venue, not only for the "black ice" that would set in during a cold snap, but also because his mom could park the family car close enough to allow him and his buddies to lace their skates in the warmth of the back seat.

The route to Parker's favorite locale was even more circuitous. Parker, his twin brother Bobby and their friends would hop aboard a bus in Somerville, take it to west Medford, then hike through a cemetery to Brooks Estates. There, the sunlight would filter through the evergreens that provided the vapor-shrouded skaters protection from the wind, and the smaller surfaces kept the puck in play.

"It wasn't like skating on Spy Pond," says Parker. "With the wind there, you could skate fast one way, but going the other way you couldn't get back." "The most precious thing of all was the puck," Parker adds. "Sometimes they'd go to the edge of the lake, which wasn't frozen, and they'd fall in. Or they'd be shot into the woods and you couldn't find them. Pucks were something you really took care of."

Players also took care of one another. Without adults running interference or organizing play dates, the kids managed things themselves. The parents who did show up were typically more interested in playing than supervising.

"What was good about Brooks Estates," says Parker, "was that there were a lot of hockey players in Medford, guys like Billy Riley, Eddie McCarty; they all played college hockey. Billy played with me at BU, Eddie played at Northeastern. We had Mr. Riley [Billy's father] out there, a former All-American, and players from Dartmouth, older guys who could show you how to play. And you thought it was really cool if you could get into a game with the good guys. Your heroes were out there."

Clearly, the outdoor game is more challenging and less predictable, making the pond hockey player a master of adaptation, always adjusting to changing conditions. There are no Zambonis. If Mother Nature delivers snow, players must shovel to clear a "rink." The ice can be smooth or rough, with cracks and ripples and frozen leaves and sticks interrupting pucks and skates alike. Skating outside is akin to the old axiom regarding another popular Northeast winter pastime: If you can ski in New England, you can ski anywhere.

"First of all, you had to hang onto the puck. It was fun to hang onto the puck," says Parker. "You learned to stick handle because there was nobody telling you anything different. It would be three-on-three, and you weren't shooting the puck off the boards, and you weren't firing the puck at anybody, because you couldn't. It would disappear on you.

"All you did was pass it and carry it. So you were always trying different moves; the idea was to hang on to it as best you could. Sometimes it would be a bigger game, six-on-six, if the older guys were playing. But more than anything else, you learned to skate because you never came off the ice."

Parker and his young classmates had the added advantage of attending St. Ann's School in Somerville. "We went to Catholic school, and we'd have Wednesday afternoons off because the public school kids would come in for release day, for religious education. So we'd be up at Brooks Estate before anybody else was," Parker says with a grin. "We were getting instructed in a different religion up at the ponds. But that was great because we could get up to Brooks by 12:30, and there was nobody there. So there were a few kids from St. Ann's there, and we owned the place."

York tries to re-create that same atmosphere for his Eagles at the nearby outdoor rink at Lars Anderson Park in Brookline. "We always try to do that, if the weather cooperates," says York. "We've done it nine of the 15 years I've been here, at some point during the Christmas vacation, just to bring back the joy of playing hockey.

"I think we get that when we go to these outdoor rinks. It brings back a tremendous amount of enthusiasm to your young guys who are so accustomed to big venues and big rinks. But all of a sudden, you're outside, playing where the game originated."

Which is exactly the atmosphere both York and Parker are hoping to find at Fenway, more than a half-century after they first heeded hockey's siren song on the local ponds of Boston.

Running the Baja


In honor of that wacky, reckless (though not without wrecks) ode to internal combustion -- the Baja 1000 -- held every November along Mexico's rugged western coastline, Men's Fitness asked me to do a story on my own four-day white-knuckle ride with the gang at Maverick Business Adventures and Wide Open Baja. You can check it out, with a slew of photos, in the November issue, or read it online here. The unedited version is below.

Dust to glory

I've got the gas pedal pegged to the floor. My co-driver Rich Bellofatto, a finance guy from Long Island, is screaming above the din of the high-torque 240-horsepower engine: "Punch it! Punch it!" Our 3000-pound Baja racer jerks into the tracks of the fine Mexican silt like a spastic slot car. My chest slams into a five-point harness that keeps me from getting jettisoned, while the steering wheel threatens to tear away from my grip. Finally, we lurch out the other side of this talcum pit, our rig covered in what our guide describes as "liquid dirt." My heart is pounding like a jackhammer. Bellofatto flashes a mega-watt smile. "Nicely done," he says.

This, in the world of Wide Open Baja, is what passes for a day at the office. And that office is found right along the route of the famed Baja 1000 race. Legendary racer Rufus "Parnelli" Jones once described this south-of-the-border demolition derby, held every November, as a "24-hour plane crash." Jones, a two-time Baja 1000 winner, wasn't kidding. This crazed mix of high-octane fuel, rubber and corrugated dirt roads through one of the world's most diverse desert environments is an eye-popping experience. And it's no "reality show" – it's real.

"Wide Open Baja is the only company I've worked with that gives you enough rope to hang yourself," says guide Andrea Tomba, warning against overconfidence. "It's easy to go from really fun to really wrong at 60 miles an hour. Baja is the temptress. She'll seduce you, and then she'll spurn you."

Seduction comes easily behind the wheel of a full-blown Baja racer boasting almost two feet of suspension per wheel. But unlike schools based on NASCAR or even drag racing, we're motoring along public roads (though the term "road" is applied rather loosely), not a racetrack. The terrain is spectacular but rugged, with hidden dangers, ranging from precipitous ravines and toe-curling switchbacks to suicide cattle, lurking around each corner or rise. We even took these burly buggies on the highways, and into cities like La Paz (when "ordinary" vehicles were forced to stop at speed bumps, our 20-inches of suspension allowed us to hit them at 40 mph). As Tomba said: "There aren't many places that will let a bunch of lunatics like us drive on public roads in race cars."

Talk about immersion. After a brief walk-through of the cockpit, I slid into the driver's seat, not with an instructor beside me, but with another Baja neophyte. In short, the driver is immediately and completely accountable for a $120,000 racing rig (each accident – flat tire, ruined transmission, dead cow – comes with a $3000 deductible). The co-pilot is no idle passenger, but a vested partner. The race cars are equipped with GPS units and radios, and the co-pilot is responsible, when he's not hanging on for dear life, for alerting the car behind about upcoming hazards (which have been sent down from the lead, or guide, car). It's a high-stakes version of the old telephone game, where incorrect instructions can send cars hurtling off the road. Key facts must be conveyed precisely and quickly. It doesn't take long to learn who in the group is a good communicator, and who can get you hurt, says Todd Clement, Wide Open's founder and a Baja veteran.

The driver, meanwhile, is trying to process all this information while keeping a 3,000-pound beast under control barreling along at breakneck speed. The most comical comment, in hindsight, was Tomba telling us: "It's not a race. We'll see some beautiful areas. Look around. Enjoy it." Those words came back to me again and again as I desperately tried to keep up with the wicked pace set by Tomba, especially after several mechanical problems put our group behind schedule. One leisurely glance to take in the surroundings could have been disastrous.

Still, once comfortable with the pitch and sway that comes with plenty of suspension on these washed-out "roads," you can really open up these rigs. Chasing the car in front of us, Bellofatto and I spent as much time in the air as we did on terra firma. "You just can't describe the feeling you get while you're screaming through the desert at 80 miles an hour, surrounded by walls of killer cactus 15 feet high, and hitting jumps that would crack a Hummer in half," says Mike Dillard of Austin, TX.

The next day we all jabbed the gas pedal a bit harder, trusting the cars to do what they were designed to do. At the end of Day Two, when we motored into Scorpion Bay under the cover of darkness, I was spent. My helmet and clothes sported a thick layer of grime. My shoulders throbbed from smashing against the harness, and my right knee had a big purple welt where it repeatedly smacked a T-bar handle designed to provide the co-pilot some stability. My midsection was battered. No, this is not a pastime for the faint of heart, or faint of wallet (tour prices vary; plan on spending $1,000 per day). But the price of admission, whether financial or physical, is well worth it. When a Wide Open staffer handed me an ice-cold Pacifico, I was grinning like a kid.

For details on Wide Open Baja, visit wideopenbaja.com or call 949-635-2292.


Unfinished business ...


Boston, bright & brisk

This has to be one of my favorite stories of 2010, and I aim to get a more in-depth piece written for one of the bigger players in the sports world. However, this short advance, done for New York Magazine (the online version is here), definitely should give you a flavor. The following is the original draft, which I think has a little more color.

The Best of Times, hockey-style

Remember "The Best of Times," the 1986 comedy with Robin Williams as an aging banker who couldn't forgive himself for dropping the touchdown pass (thrown perfectly by Kurt Russell, naturally) that cost his teammates, and town, bragging rights against their arch rival? Now combine it with Paul Newman's hockey classic, "Slap Shot," and you have an inkling of what Scott Williams was thinking when the light bulb went off.

Williams's inspiration, and persistence, has resulted to a truly unique athletic endeavor. On April 3, at the Mennen Arena in Morristown, NJ, former members of the Delbarton Green Wave and the St. Joseph's Green Knights from Montvale will face off against one another, 21 years after they were originally set to play for in the state hockey title game in 1989. Williams was a senior on that St. Joseph's squad that was one win away from being crowned the state champion that year. The key difference between the fictional football teams from "The Best of Times" and the members of the 1989 Delbarton and St. Joe's hockey teams, is that the latter never got to play their championship game.

In one of the strangest episodes in New Jersey high school sports history, a measles outbreak at Delbarton forced a cancellation of the 1989 finals. Which is a shame, because that championship game was shaping up to be a dandy. St. Joe's (24-2-1) and Debarton's Green Wave (24-3-2) were the two top ranked teams in the state, with two of the state's best players, St. Joe's Kenny Blum and Delbarton's Derek Maguire (both of whom would be drafted in the 9th round of the NHL draft that spring).

"Nobody believed it at first," says Williams, who heard the news from his coach, Ron Skibin. "Remember, there's no Internet, no cell phones. The grapevine had to work. Until we went to school that Monday, I don't think we all grasped what it meant. We were saying, 'Did this weekend just happen? Weren't we supposed to play the game?' And on Monday, it was over. That's it. The state couldn't pull that off today, because parents and lawyers would be all over them to reschedule it."

Instead, after the game was simply cancelled. The NJSIAA's executive committee declared the two teams co-champions, and the season was relegated to some dust-covered record book. Then, last March, the Star Ledger newspaper ran a story on the 20th anniversary of the championship game that never happened. The seed for Williams' brainstorm was planted when Delbarton's Mike Pendy, an assistant captain on the '89 team, was quoted as saying: "Maybe we could get all these guys together 20 years later, lace up the skates somewhere and play that game."

That comment got Pendy's former teammates talking, and joking, but not much more came of it. Williams, however, had other plans. He wanted to play the game. "I knew I just needed to get a hold of someone on Delbarton," he says. "Hockey in New Jersey is a small world, and someone said get in touch with Jim Olsen. We talked, hit it off, and said 'Let's do this.' The wheels got in motion, and before we knew it, it was on."

James Olsen, a former linemate of Pendy's at Delbarton, was initially unsure about staging the game, until Williams talked about earmarking the proceeds for cancer-related charities, including the NHL's Hockey Fights Cancer. That plan struck a nerve.

"Scott's mom was suffering from brain cancer, and he recently did a fundraiser for her to cover some medical bills. He said this could be a great story, and at the same time we could raise some money for charity and have a lot of fun and bring everybody together," says Olsen. "I just thought that was outstanding. Coincidentally, my father passed away from brain cancer five years ago. So I thought, this guy really wants to do a nice job with this. It could be really terrific."

Now, the game – dubbed the Frozen Flashback – is etched in stone, or at least on everyone's Blackberry calendar. "It's going to be a blast," says Olsen. "This is not going to be a nasty grudge match. We're going to play hard, and it's going to be competitive, but it's going to be clean." Or, as Maguire, who played at Harvard and now lives outside Boston, says: "I don't see the game getting out of hand. Heck, we're not high school kids anymore. We'll have our families – our wives and kids – in the stands."

Pendy says the fact that game actually came together is a testament to the two schools, and to the game itself. Almost 90 percent, or 40 or the original 46 players from 1989, are expected to suit up. Each team will be allowed five subs, to help offset roster shortfalls, provided they are alumni, and graduated prior to 1989. "Our entire team has been contacted, and the interest level is high," says Pendy. "Some guys have been playing, and some guys are running out to buy equipment."

The game, as Pendy predicted, is likely to be slower, and will also be less physical, thanks to the no-check rules that both sides have agreed to. But make no mistake; these guys still want to win. "From every aspect, and every angle, this is just setting up to be a home-run event," says Pendy. Or, to put it in the proper vernacular, an overtime winner. Which it might come down to, as no one will even consider the game ending in a draw.

"I don't think we can let it go," says Olsen, laughing. "We'll have to keep playing."

Blum, who played professionally until 2004, readily agrees that a tie won't work. "I don't think anybody would want that," he says. "Other than the charity part, that would be defeating the purpose."

That purpose, say the players, is to not only raise money for a worthwhile cause, but to put on a show for the 2,500 expected to be in attendance and, yes, to put the 1989 season to rest. "The great thing about playing at Mennen, is that the place was packed for our games," says Olsen. "It was a great experience, being on the ice in front of those crowds, and we have one more opportunity to do it."

For details on the April 3 game, or to contribute to the respective charities, visit FrozenFlashback.com.